All About France’s Favorite Holiday Desserts: Bûche de Noël and Marrons Glacé
Across most cultures, sweets are a key part of major celebrations—and the French are no exception. This holiday season, they’ll gather for the Réveillon de Noël—a multi-course Christmas Eve meal shared with friends and family—and among the many items including smoked salmon, foie gras, turkey, and cheese, two desserts will feature prominently: bûche de Noël and marrons glacé. Here’s all you need to know about the delectable confections, including how to make them and where to buy them on this side of the Atlantic.
The History
Of the two, bûche de Noël (known in America as a “yule log cake” and also called a gâteau de Noël or gâteau roulé in France) is the reigning holiday indulgence at French tables. Shaped like a log, it consists of genoise or vanilla sponge cake slathered with coffee or chocolate buttercream, which is then rolled up, covered in chocolate ganache, and decorated with toppings that mirror moss and mushrooms. The pastry was inspired by the centuries-long fire festivals marking the winter solstice, and the Christian tradition of burning a large yule log on Christmas Eve that was re-lit until Twelfth Night. It was popularized as an homage by French pâtissiers in the 1800s, and it’s been a staple ever since.
Another fixture of the holiday season is marrons glacé, or candied, glazed chestnuts. Only the highest-quality chestnuts are used for this purpose, which means marrons glacé are both rare and expensive—making them a true celebratory delicacy. Its origins are hotly contested between the Italian and French, but are generally believed to date back to 15th or 16th centuries when sugar was brought to popular chestnut-growing regions in those countries. It wasn’t until the late 1800s when a factory in Lyon popularized mass production of the sweet, and it caught on.
The Tradition
It’s a tried and true ritual to enjoy a slice of bûche de Noël at the end of the Christmas Eve feast, no matter how full you are. Often, it’s paired with coffee or a digestif like brandy or cognac. Some folks take pride in making their own (especially if it’s a handed-down family recipe), though most pick one up at their neighborhood boulangerie. French pastry chefs often compete to create unique versions of the traditional dessert—from hazelnut to pistachio to raspberry—which essentially enjoys its own season in French bakeries starting as early as October.
Marrons glacé are gifted to hosts and loved ones in boxes of six or 10, since they’re both a literally and figuratively rich indulgence. Some of the most coveted marrons glacé in Paris are made at Berthillon, but packages of the confection can be found in specialty shops and grocery stores across the country during the holidays. Clément Faugier and Corsiglia are particularly popular brands.
Bake or Buy
Want to try your hand at creating your own version of the bûche de Noël? This recipe from Pardon Your French is easy to follow, with helpful step-by-step photos. If you’d rather pick one up, Dominique Ansel, Balthazar, Bien Cuit, and Ladureé are all tried and true New York City options—though one of our favorite French restaurants may also fit the bill. In Montclair, NJ, order from one of our beloved spots, including Jayce Baudry and Le French Dad (who even offers individual-sized versions!)
Making marrons glacé is a bit more of a labor-intensive process—the cooking instructions are quite specific, and they require days of soaking and coating. If you’re game, try this recipe. Otherwise, pick some up at La Maison du Chocolat or Le District.
For more festive celebrations, head to L’Alliance New York for one of our many winter events, or get in the warm, cozy mood with a seasonal French read from our library.