December Holiday Traditions in French-Speaking Countries

This winter, revelers across the francophone world will gather with family and friends to celebrate various merrymaking customs. And while some of these observances are similar to the tried and true markers of the season here in America, several others are quite distinctively French (and all the more charming for it!) If you’d like to adopt a few new rituals à la française into your own festivities, here are some popular and surprising December holiday traditions from French-speaking countries.

 

Signs (and Shopping!) of the Season

Similar to America, the buildings and landmarks of France—especially Paris and other large cities—are strewn and illuminated with colorful holiday lights, and you’ll find setups of the nativity (crèche de Noël) in many public spaces. Less common on our side of the Atlantic, though, are the holiday vendors (marchés de Noël) that are prevalent in both large and small towns throughout France, Switzerland, and Belgium beginning in November. 

These warmly-lit outdoor markets include various booths filled with food, drinks, and artisanal gift items. It’s quintessentially French to sip a vin chaud—hot spiced mulled wine—while browsing the goods. This is a simple recipe so you can make your own, if you’re so inclined. And here in New York City, you can get a taste of the marchés at holiday pop-ups in Union Square, Columbus Circle, Bryant Park, and more. For our friends in Montclair, NJ, there’s also the Montclair Flea’s popular seasonal market.

 

Giving Back to the Community

Across France, it’s traditional to offer les etrennes—money or presents—to service workers like mail carriers, housekeepers, sanitation staff, delivery drivers, etc. In Québec, the sentiment is taken a step further with la guignolée, a charity fundraiser established in 1861 that involves raising donations of money and food for the needy through door-to-door collections. 

 

A Short-Lived Ornamental Sapin

Unlike those in the United States who put their Christmas tree up around Thanksgiving and take it down not long after New Year’s Day, the French raise and decorate un sapin de Noël on Christmas Eve and leave it up for twelve nights only, until the Epiphany on January 6. 

 

An Emphasis on Sweets Before Services

We’ve talked a bit about the big Christmas Eve dinner, the réveillon de Noël, as well as the popular bûche de Noël and marrons glacé desserts that are mainstay holiday traditions in French-speaking countries, but in Provence there’s an even bigger display of sweets known as les treize desserts. It involves setting out thirteen items after Christmas Eve dinner, to represent Jesus and his twelve apostles. Think of it more like a grazing board than a fancy spread of intricate cakes and cookies—traditional items include dried fruits and nuts, nougat, brioche, biscuits, and chocolate.

Every guest must enjoy one of each sweet offering, for good luck. And after they’ve had their fill, those throughout the French-speaking world—from Haiti to Senegal to France to Belgium—often attend a midnight mass. Also similar to observances in America, gift-giving on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day is shared throughout Francophone regions. 

 

A Covert Confection Place Card

Another Christmas Eve dinner table staple in France is papillotes: gold foil-wrapped chocolates containing fruit and nuts. These tiny treats include a hidden message, and one is left at each place setting for guests to enjoy before or after the réveillon de Noël. They date back to 18th century Lyon, and are named for a confectioner whose apprentice sent love notes to his sweetheart via the delicacies. France’s most popular brand, Revillon, sells millions of papillotes every holiday season.

 

Souliers in Place of Stockings

For the French, Santa is known as Père Noël, and—unlike their counterparts in the U.S. who hang their stockings by the chimney with care—they place their empty shoes by the fire or beneath the tree, in hopes that he’ll fill them with tiny treasures. And instead of the threat of coal left for naughty American boys and girls, little ones in France, Belgium, and Switzerland fear a meaner version of Santa, Père Fouettard, who dispenses not only coal but also spankings.

 

Now that you’re caught up on the popular holiday traditions from French-speaking countries, keep the festivities going all winter long here at L’Alliance New York—we have an array of seasonal events and classes for every age and interest.

 

Photo: Marché de Noël à Paris en 2023 © LE PARISIEN / ARNAUD JOURNOIS / MAXPPP